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Updated thumbnails to include sub (caption)

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Bastian de Byl
2019-02-18 19:39:24 -05:00
parent f3fbc96992
commit 71d50c8ac4
2 changed files with 19 additions and 19 deletions
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20
content/post/aperture-study.md
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@@ -38,7 +38,7 @@ lost at that target distance of 1 meter.
The biggest difference can be seen between the *f/1.7* and *f/4.0* shots. Note
the increase in clarity on the pillows fabric.
{{< thumb "/img/aperture-study/f17-f40-comp.jpg" >}}
{{< thumb src="/img/aperture-study/f17-f40-comp.jpg" sub="f/1.7 vs. f/4.0" >}}
---
@@ -46,7 +46,7 @@ the increase in clarity on the pillows fabric.
At *f/2.8* and above I started noticing less increase in perceived sharpness of
the image, though the difference in comparison to *f/1.7* was still fairly
noticeable
{{< thumb "/img/aperture-study/f17-f28-comp.jpg" >}}
{{< thumb src="/img/aperture-study/f17-f28-comp.jpg" sub="f/1.7 vs f/2.8" >}}
---
@@ -56,7 +56,7 @@ difference in shutter speed, the overall difference does not seem as dramatic
from *f/2.8* to *f/4.0*. Personally, I'd say that *f/2.8* is the clear winner in
finding the best middle-ground between maximum aperture and image quality.
{{< thumb "/img/aperture-study/f28-f40-comp.jpg" >}}
{{< thumb src="/img/aperture-study/f28-f40-comp.jpg" sub="f/2.8 vs. f/4.0" >}}
---
@@ -65,11 +65,11 @@ Below is the entire collection of all the photos taken of the subject at
increasing aperture steps.
{{< thumbgallery >}}
{{< thumb "/img/aperture-study/f17.jpg" >}}
{{< thumb "/img/aperture-study/f20.jpg" >}}
{{< thumb "/img/aperture-study/f22.jpg" >}}
{{< thumb "/img/aperture-study/f25.jpg" >}}
{{< thumb "/img/aperture-study/f28.jpg" >}}
{{< thumb "/img/aperture-study/f32.jpg" >}}
{{< thumb "/img/aperture-study/f40.jpg" >}}
{{< thumb src="/img/aperture-study/f17.jpg" sub="f/1.7" >}}
{{< thumb src="/img/aperture-study/f20.jpg" sub="f/2.0" >}}
{{< thumb src="/img/aperture-study/f22.jpg" sub="f/2.2" >}}
{{< thumb src="/img/aperture-study/f25.jpg" sub="f/2.5" >}}
{{< thumb src="/img/aperture-study/f28.jpg" sub="f/2.8" >}}
{{< thumb src="/img/aperture-study/f32.jpg" sub="f/3.2" >}}
{{< thumb src="/img/aperture-study/f40.jpg" sub="f/4.0" >}}
{{< /thumbgallery >}}

18
content/post/headphone-fix.md
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@@ -17,7 +17,7 @@ side, I figured the only way *in* was lifting the mesh cover off. So I went at
it, carefully, with a pair of tweezers. I worked my way around the edge and
wedged the mesh upwards.
{{< thumb "/img/headphone-fix/IMG_7505.jpg" >}}
{{< thumb src="/img/headphone-fix/IMG_7505.jpg" >}}
# Okay, Maybe Turn It On
@@ -29,10 +29,10 @@ right speaker put out no sound._ I checked the known-good left speaker using my
**Rigol 1074Z** oscilloscope. This may not have been entirely necessary, but I
wanted to find out what to expect when troubleshooting the right channel.
{{< thumb "/img/headphone-fix/IMG_7506.jpg" >}}
{{< thumb "/img/headphone-fix/IMG_7511.jpg" >}}
{{< thumbgallery >}}
{{< thumb src="/img/headphone-fix/IMG_7506.jpg" sub="Left Speaker" >}}
{{< thumb src="/img/headphone-fix/IMG_7511.jpg" sub="Right Speaker" >}}
{{< /thumbgallery >}}
Knowing what to expect on the oscilloscope, I hooked up the probe to the right,
problematic, speaker. The result was much different, indicating either noise or
@@ -44,7 +44,7 @@ disconnected at this point in time to ease the troubleshooting process.
Lucky for me the PCB pads were labeled -- even better `SPKL+` (_left_) and
`SPKR+` (_right_) were easy to find.
{{< thumb "/img/headphone-fix/IMG_7507.jpg" >}}
{{< thumb src="/img/headphone-fix/IMG_7507.jpg" >}}
Outside of the bluetooth board hidden under the piece of tape, there's not a
whole lot going on in the circuit. It was my guess that the visible surface
@@ -59,7 +59,7 @@ which verified that to be the case.
115_) to test continuity of the circuit from the known-good and the now
known-bad speaker traces back to the `OUTL` and `OUTR` outputs of the amplifier.
{{< thumb "/img/headphone-fix/IMG_7514.jpg" >}}
{{< thumb src="/img/headphone-fix/IMG_7514.jpg" >}}
Removing the board from the housing required a bit of finesse. I didn't want to
bother desoldering the left speaker connections to make removal easier. So, with
@@ -83,7 +83,7 @@ Using the 3.5mm mini-jack's solder pads, I found continuity to be true from the
chips left and right outputs to the conveniently accessible solder pads. _A
bodge wire was in order_..
{{< thumb "/img/headphone-fix/IMG_7515.jpg" >}}
{{< thumb src="/img/headphone-fix/IMG_7515.jpg" sub="Note the bodge wire" >}}
# All's Well That Ends Well
@@ -92,7 +92,7 @@ pin to `SPKR+`. Lo and behold it was now closed-circuit! I was very happy to see
the expected waveform from the known-good left channel now also appearing on the
right channel.
{{< thumb "/img/headphone-fix/IMG_7516.jpg" >}}
{{< thumb src="/img/headphone-fix/IMG_7516.jpg" >}}
At this point I quickly re-soldered the wires to the speaker and enjoyed music
now coming into both ears!